Roundup: Paris Fashion Week

Strong, empowering women and the rise of the #MeToo movement set the tone across every Fashion Week show this year – and Paris’ catwalks were no exception. Many designers (Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Lemaire or Givenchy) opted for unified shows, with both men’s and womenswear on the catwalks.

Feminism was translated into different shapes and forms; some designers opted for genderless or oversized solutions, whereas others were focusing on the romantic side of the feminine spectrum. Either way, there was a whole lot of girl power!

News

The Chinese Fosun International, owner of the French leisure company Club Med, expanded into fashion labels and acquired the majority of shares to the oldest French couture label, Lanvin. With Lanvin facing financial difficulties, the Chinese group wants to invest around 100 million Euros in the business, with the hopes of returning its spirit, star status and making it into a billion-dollar brand like Balmain and Valentino.

Off-White fans caused an intense riot outside the label’s Rue Cambon venue, trying to force their way in to the show. Police experienced difficulty controlling the huge mob of fans, and some editors left the area, claiming it unsafe for them to stay.

LVMH announced it had appointed Hedi Slimane to oversee all creativity at Céline, including women’s and men’s fashion, leather goods, accessories and a future couture collection. Slimane, who has previously held positions at Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, commenced his role on 1st February, and will be debuting his first collection for the luxury house at Paris Fashion Week in September.

After a 17 year partnership, Kering is selling its 50% share of Stella McCartney back to the label, stated Kering’s spokesperson in an exclusive statement to Business of Fashion. The split has not yet been confirmed officially, however an announcement is expected within the next three to four months.

Highlights

Combining colours, fabrics, and layers has always been the prerogative of Chitose Abe’s Sacai label. This movement affected the likes of Balenciaga, Kolor, Maison Margiela, or even Dries van Noten (in a very sophisticated way) this season, by taking fusing and splicing to a whole new visual level.

 

Trends

Time travel back to the 50’s and 60’s at Miu Miu and Dior, and even the 80’s, where power dressing references were just as much emphasised as the animal prints or the plaids we have seen in the previous fashion capitals. Layering by Sacai, Yohji Yamamoto or Balenciaga is taken to another level, whereas romantic dresses at Alexander McQueen, Valentino, or Elie Saab give the collections an authentic Parisian-chic feel. The ugly-sneaker-trend that already started in Milan peaked in Paris with designers such as Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton.

80’s

 Animal prints

Plaids

Feminine Dresses

Oversized

High Shine

Business as Usual

 

The AW18 spectacular is not over yet – we’ll be reporting live from Seoul Fashion Week!
Emesha Nagy

Designer, creative director and consultant. With over a decade of experience in the fashion industry, she wants to share her love for fashion, contemporary art, and thoughtful discussion on fashion and retail industries.

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